Vashist (Manali), Delhi,

end August 2010 (depart Leh for Vashist) two days one overnight in mini bus
via diversion because of landslips)

Vashist - Dinner

Ask for sugar free, dairy free, onion garlic free but with beans - need some protein after 2 days on the road. get something that smells like hot brown sauce - one spoonful confirms it - i go two stories downstairs to the cook/waiter and ask what he has prepared me. He says baked beans, indian sauce - I want to yell - are you crazy????? how many times did i ask for sugar free??? oh sorry i forgot. Here's your plain naan. its chopped like soldiers and i take a hungry bite and find its full of sugar - This man is crazy. Having waited nearly one hour - it was now 9pm and too late to go anywhere else - ate some white rice on its own...

Or rather with Mr Singh who has an organic farm - he's about 60 - and i listened to him while i chewed my equally uninspiring dinner. Can't believe the chef when I leave - says come tomorrow i cook something else.... Yeah..

Manali - Delhi - overnight on normal bus - disguised as deluxe.

But i get to sit next to a skinny Japanese man . Phew.

Finding clean hotel room in Delhi on the cheap is not easy. I found many with no windows and after taken a pricey room with a big windown I soon realise that no window is a better option - someone somewhere from one or other roof tops is looking at me through my window. Move to cheaper place with small window. I've got big huge puffy ankles - no idea why ? maybe from the heat and humidity.

Delhi Metro at RamaKrishnaMarg anyway is clean and futuristic - above ground - like being in a space movie... Full and croweded but no gropping. (no, not sadly). just surprised. Running through the rain and mud, in flip flops, I cut a corner off to run onto the pavement and nearly slip but recover - only to turn back and see my huge slidey footprint left in newly set concrete.... i look across the raod and see an indian man laughing - oopse.

Delhi Art Opening - very same as London - everyone standing around sipping something. small veggies and otherthings being passed around on white plates. very neatly dressed waiters but the artist is from US. I speak to one local and ask him if he's collector or artist? artist? looks like Indian version of Jay . cropped greying hair and same glasses . ha! ha! get bored and leave. Never liked openings.

Take a taxi the next day to Defence Colony and go to swish Italian restaurant - knife and fork type - just about remember how to use cutlery. Take a taxi back with a very drunk driver - habit he says.

Pack and leave half my stuff at hotel. Take small bag to train station and head to Brindavn.